New Zealand Adventure Tours – New Zealand Bike Tours – Hiking New Zealand Vacations

The 53.5 km Milford Track is in the heart of spectacular Fiordland National Park which is part of the Te Wahi Pounamu, South West New Zealand World Heritage Area.

Location

The Milford Track is located in the south-west of the South Island and starts at the head of Lake Te Anau and finishes in Milford Sound. Te Anau is the nearest township. It is a 1 hour 45 minutes drive from Invercargill; 2 hours from Queenstown; 3 hours 30minutes from Dunedin and 8 hours from Christchurch. Te Anau has a full range of accommodation, shopping and hire services.

History

The early Maori of Southland and Otago probably travelled the Milford Track route in Search of pounamu (greenstone) from Milford Sound. Donald Sutherland and John Mackay found Mackay and Sutherland Falls in 1880, and possibly also crossed Mackinnon Pass before pioneer explorer and surveyor Quintin Mackinnon. In 1888 Sutherland and others were commissioned to cut a track up the Arthur Valley as far as Sutherland Falls, while Mackinnon was employed to cut a track up the Clinton Valley from the head of Lake Te Anau. On October 17,1888 Mackinnon and his companion Ernest Mitchell reached the head of the Clinton Valley, crossed the pass and continued down the Arthur Valley on the track cut by Sutherland.

Mackinnon was the first Milford Track guide and was long remembered for his good nature and ability at cooking pompolonas (a type of scone) from which one of the guided trip huts takes its name. He ferried parties in his sailing boat Juliet to the head of Lake Te Anau, then up over the pass to Lake Ada where another boat ferried them to Sutherland's accommodation house at Milford Sound. The title 'the finest walk in the world' first accompanied an article by poet Blanche Baughan which was published in the London Spectator in 1908. In the early days packhorses were used to carry stores to the huts. Beyond Pompolona hut a cleared area is an old horse paddock and stables site. Old number eight wire and insulators visible along parts of the track are the remains of a telephone system which linked huts before radio communication was adopted. Trampers had to walk back along the track from Milford Sound until 1954 when the Te Anau-Milford Sound highway opened. Over 12,000 independent and guided trampers now walk the track each year.

Location

For the last two million years huge glaciers have shaped the landscape of Fiordland. They have left behind U-shaped main valleys, ice-gouged ledges and the hanging valleys of tributary streams. These formations are well preserved because of the hardness of the mainly granite, rock.

Silver, red and mountain beech forest dominates the lower Clinton, with colonising species such as fuchsia, wineberry, broadleaf and mountain ribbonwood common around slips and avalanche paths. Beyond Mintaro the track climbs above the forest through sub-alpine scrub and into the tussocks and alpine herb communities of the pass. In early summer the white flowers of the mountain buttercup Ranunculus lyallii, mountain daisies and snow marguerites can be seen. From the pass the track drops through a shrubland zone which includes mountain three finger, the tree daisy Senecio bennettii (with yellow flowers), and a native broom Carmichaelia grandiflora, which has sweetly scented mauve flowers. The higher rainfall and milder temperatures in the lower Arthur Valley produce a more diverse forest, which includes silver beech, kamahi, miro, totara, fuchsia, mahoe and pate. Ferns, mosses and lichens are abundant around the track.

Common bush birds are bellbirds, tomtits, grey warblers, and rifleman. Brown creepers are often conspicuous near the bushline, while robins prefer beech forest in the lower Clinton. Yellowheads are scattered through each valley. Flocks of redpolls and silver eyes feed in more open areas, and occasionally a falcon may be seen. Rock wrens inhabit the subalpine scrub and kea are common on the pass. Brown kiwi, kaka, weka and morepork are often heard calling at twilight. During the summer, calls of the long-tailed and shining cuckoos may occasionally be heard . Rare blue ducks live on the fast-flowing Clinton and Arthur Rivers.

The Track

The rewards of walking the Milford Track are many. Once described as the finest walk in the world the Milford Track is one of New Zealand's most popular walks with approximately 12000 people completing the track each year. The track can only be walked in one direction, as a 4 day / 3 night walk - Glade Wharf to Milford Sound, during the booked walking season (late October to late April). Only 40 Independent Walkers and a similar number of Guided walkers are permitted to start the track each day. Booking during this time period is essential. In the winter season (late April to late October) walkers can travel the track in either direction staying up to two nights at each hut. Staying overnight in shelters or camping on the Milford track is not permitted.

Maori frequently travelled this route during journeys to Milford Sound/Piopiotahi to collect pounamu (greenstone). In 1888 a track was cut up the Arthur valley to the Sutherland Falls, with the first known European crossing of the pass made later that year. Guided trips on the track commenced shortly after. Until the 1954 opening of the Homer tunnel walkers had to return back along the track. Today walkers take 4 days (3 nights) to complete the walk staying one night in each of the three huts.

The track passes through the beech forests of a sheer-sided glacial valley as it gradually climbs and follows the usually crystal-clear Clinton River to the foot of Mackinnon Pass. The pass (1073 metres) is dominated by alpine herbfields, and spectacular views of the surrounding mountains are obtained. The Sutherland Falls, the highest waterfall in New Zealand can be seen after the descent from the pass. The higher rainfall and milder temperatures of the Arthur Valley give a more diverse forest walk, past waterfalls and lakes to Sandfly Point. A wide variety of native birds may be seen or heard along the length of the track.

Can I do it?

Any fit person can walk the Milford Track. You will need to be able to carry all your own gear over rough rocky uneven surfaces, climbing and descending for up to 20kms a day. It is an ideal trip for groups or individuals. The Milford Track is not recommended for children under the age of ten due to the mountainous terrain and adverse weather conditions. Make sure all your party is capable of undertaking the trip. Fording flooded waters up to one metre deep may be necessary after periods of heavy rain. Physical fitness and good equipment will make the difference to your enjoyment regardless of the weather. It is suggested you start a regular walking programme 1- 2 months before your departure on the track. This programme should include some practice at carrying your pack on hills or stairs.

Weather

Fiordland National Park has high rainfall and changeable weather. Unpredictable weather patterns mean that cold temperatures, snow, strong winds and heavy rain, which can cause temporary surface flooding on the track, can occur at any time of the year. Be prepared for at least one wet day on your trip. Remember, exposure / hypothermia can affect anyone when the weather is wet, cold and windy. Be prepared with suitable clothing. Hypothermia can kill.

During the winter season (late April to late October) snow and avalanche danger (56 avalanche paths cross the Milford track) can make the track impassable. Please check current track and weather conditions at the Fiordland National Park Visitor Centre before departing on the track.

What to Take

For your own safety it is essential to carry the equipment listed below, no matter how warm it is on the day of departure:

Most equipment is available for hire or purchase in Te Anau. A full range of food is available in Te Anau Basic stores are available in Milford Sound.

Clothing

• You will need at least one set of clothes to walk in, and another dry set to change into at night. It is not possible to dry clothes overnight in the huts.
• Boots: need to be comfortable and well broken in.
• Socks: (wool/polypropylene) 2 pairs
• Shorts: (cotton/ nylon)
• Shirt: (wool/polypropylene)
• Longjohns or trousers: (wool/polypropylene)
• Jersey or Jacket: (wool/polypropylene)
• Undershirts/ T-shirts: (wool/polypropylene)
• Mittens/Gloves: (wool/polypropylene)
• Woollen hat /balaclava & sun-hat
• Raincoat: (waterproof, windproof with hood)
• Extra socks, underwear, shirt or lightweight jersey.
• Warning - synthetic clothing is flammable.
• It is essential that this clothing is carried as your safety and the safety of others could depend on it.
• NB: cotton clothing such as jeans, T-shirts, sweatshirts are NOT suitable.

Personal Equipment

• Pack: with large waterproof liner
• Sleeping Bag: good quality down or hollofil
• Matches/ Lighter: in waterproof container
• Torch: spare batteries
• Eating utensils: Knife, fork, spoon, plate, cup
• Cooking utensils: pot/pan/billy, pot scrubber
• Toilet gear: soap, toothpaste, toilet paper, small towel (remember do not wash in lakes or streams)
• First Aid Kit: insect repellent, sunscreen, blister kits, pain relief, and assorted bandages
• Survival Kit: Survival blanket, whistle, paper, pencil, spare days food
• Drink bottle: you need to drink regularly during day
• Optional extras: sunglasses, camera, and lightweight shoes for in hut, earplugs for communal bunkrooms
• Outside the booked walking season walkers will also need to carry gas cookers and mountain radios.

Food

• Is not available for purchase on the track.
• Food should be lightweight, fast cooking and high in energy value e.g.
• Breakfast: cereal, firm bread, honey or other spreads
• Lunch: cracker biscuits, cheese, salami, margarine, jam/jelly, powdered fruit drink, fruit
• Dinner: instant soup, pasta/rice, dried vegetables/fruit, cheese or dehydrated (freeze dry) meals.
• You will also need: snacks, biscuits, muesli bars, tea/coffee, powdered drink, emergency food in case of any delays on the track.

Water

You will need to drink regularly while walking, even on cooler days, to avoid dehydration. You need to carry some water, as you may not be able to find any enroute. Giardia maybe present in some areas. Regular testing is not carried out. If you wish to treat the water you can boil water for 5 minutes, use a filter, or chemically treat it. Drinking water at the huts and shelters comes from the rivers and lakes.

Toilets

Please use toilets at huts and shelters. If this is not possible bury toilet waste well away from watercourses. Remember drinking water at huts and shelters comes from rivers and lakes.

Accommodation

Walkers are expected to leave the accommodation clean and tidy, and take their rubbish out with them. Huts: There are three Department of Conservation huts on the track Clinton, Mintaro and Dumpling. In the winter season huts are supplied with tables and benches, water supply, stove for heating in main hut and pit toilets. In the booked walking season tables, benches, lighting, heating, cold running water and gas cooking rings are supplied in the main hut. Ablution blocks have flush toilets and wash basins. In both seasons walkers sleep in communal bunkrooms, mattresses provided - no lighting or heating. Conservation staff are in residence over the booked walking season. They are equipped with radios for use in emergencies and for weather forecasts. Camping: or staying overnight in the shelters is not permitted on the Milford Track. Facilities for guided walkers are not available to independent walkers.

Getting There

Walking the Milford track requires either bus or private transport to Te Anau Downs, 20km from Te Anau, then boat transport to Glade Wharf. Boat transport is also required from Sandfly Point (the end of the track) to Milford Sound. During the booked walking season travel arrangements can be made via the Great Walks Booking Desk along with your Hut bookings. See booking form. During the winter season there is no regular transport services to and from the track and walkers must organise all transport prior to departure for the track. During the booked walking season walkers can only walk the track in one direction - Lake Te Anau to Sandfly Point - and walkers must spend 4 days/ 3 nights on the track - 1 night at each of the following huts, Clinton - Mintaro- Dumpling. During the winter season the track can be walked in either direction with a maximum of two nights being spent at any hut.

Track Guide

Day one 3.5km, 1-1.5 hrs

From Glade Wharf there is a 1km walk to Glade House, the first overnight stop for guided trampers. Independent trampers continue on up the track for about one hour, through attractive beech forest along the banks of the Clinton River, to Clinton Hut. The first night must be spent at Clinton Hut as the previous party will be occupying accommodation at the next hut, Mintaro Hut. There are good swimming holes available near the hut and a side trip around the wetland boardwalk just prior to the hut.

Day Two 16.5km, 5.5hrs

It is a gradual climb from Clinton Hut as the track follows the Clinton River to its source, Lake Mintaro, at the base of Mackinnon Pass. It passes through sections of forest and crosses many small and a few large streams, which may need to be forded after or during heavy rain. The track also passes many avalanche paths, which are sign posted during the danger season. Use caution at other times as dictated by the weather. Just prior to Mintaro hut is the steepest section of the day's walk. It is approximately ½ to ¾ of an hour of uphill walking to the hut. The vegetation changes to reflect the higher altitude and rainfall. Trampers must stay the second night at Mintaro Hut.

Day Three 14km, 6hrs

From Mintaro Hut there is a well-graded steady climb of about two hours to the top of Mackinnon Pass, passing Mackinnon Memorial on the way. A toilet and lunch shelter, with a gas cooker, are sited at the pass. The 8km walk from the pass drops steadily down over rocky terrain, and provides spectacular views. For many trampers this is the most difficult part of the track. At Quintin Hut (a guided trip overnight stop) there is a public shelter and toilet where packs can be left when making the side trip to Sutherland Falls - about 1 1/2 hours return. A good view of the falls can be found 20 minutes towards Dumpling Hut from the Quintin Hut turnoff. From the Quintin shelter it is about an hour walk to Dumpling Hut.

Day Four 18km, 5.5 - 6 hrs

The track first follows the Arthur River and crosses it by a bridge at Boat Shed (a morning tea stop for guided parties). It then follows the shores of Lake Ada to Sandfly Point, passing through high beech forest and affording views of Mackay Falls, and Giant Gate Falls - a good lunch spot with toilet and shelter facilities. Bell Rock, near Mackay Falls, is an intriguing rock which has been worn by water and grinding stones and then tipped over in a rock fall. The rock cuttings alongside the Arthur River and around Lake Ada were blasted out by prison gangs and contracted work parties late 19th century. Floods can cause delay. If the track is closed during the booked season conservation staff will notify walkers and provide support for those already walking. You will need to leave Dumpling Hut between 8and 9am to meet the boats from Sandfly Point to Milford Sound which leave at 2.30pm and 3.15pm. The crossing takes approximately 20 minutes.

Travel Insurance

We recommend you arrange travel insurance to guard against loss of costs associated with cancellation or delay of your trip. The Department of Conservation will not be liable for injury, damage or any costs incurred by intending walkers. Emergency evacuation from the track can only be arranged by Conservation staff. For your own safety please sign hut books when you arrive. Know the symptoms of exposure. React quickly by finding shelter and providing warmth. If you become lost, stop, find shelter, stay calm and try to assist searchers.

Please Remember

All native wildlife in the park is protected. To protect ground dwelling birds no dogs or other domestic animals are permitted on the track or in the park. All rubbish must be carried out of the park. Fire is a major threat and open fires are prohibited - please use portable stoves for cooking. Smoking is not permitted in the huts and shelters. A permit is required before a firearm can be carried into a National Park.